On paper the spring collection from Rick Owens sounds about as

far from the designer’s comfort zone as can be. The words pastel

and tulle aren’t typically included in the Owens lexicon and yet

they worked so well with his aesthetic that even the designer’s

edgiest acolytes had to be impressed by his take on the ultrafeminine.

Ballet served as the inspiration for spring’s showing,

but Owens eschewed the typical tutu trappings in favor of a look

that was modern and at times industrial. Sweeping columns with

tulle detailing and cuneate gowns that floated away from the

body served as a starting point for a collection that grew more

more complex with each look, swelling to a finale of artfully

architectural gowns that wrapped around each model’s frame

like a chrysalis. The effect was heightened by incredible hair and

makeup by Luigi Murenu and Lucia Peroni. One couldn’t help but

feel that this departure represents a new beginning for Owens,

who is already a highly regarded design talent in and out of

fashion. By showing the full breadth of what he can do Owen is

likely to attract an even wider audience – or at the very least he’s

likely to sell countless ridged geisha platforms. The unique heels

sported on his runway are already the shoe of the season.