Catwalk beauty has come over all retro. MAC senior make-up artist Caroline Donnelly shows you how to get the look.
A black smoky eye may be the ultimate party look but make-up artists at London Fashion Week looked to the 1960s and ’70s for inspiration. Get ahead by embracing rich brown and copper tones as an alternative.
Step 1, skincare
Super-healthy looking skin is key for this look – the most perfect version of yourself. And this look starts with good skincare. Apply MAC Mineralize Face +Body Charged Lotion over your face, followed by MAC Prep + Prime Skin Brightening Serum and Lip Conditioner. Always apply more lip conditioner than you think you’ll need and let the product sink in while you work on your face.
Step 2, coverage
Apply a light cover of your favourite foundation; I am using Mac Face + Body Foundation. Buff it into your skin using a brush. This pushes the foundation in, preventing it from looking as though there’s product lying on the surface. A small eyeliner brush and the MAC PRO Conceal And Correct Palette are backstage favourites to hide areas that need extra coverage. Make-up artists love the palette as it has four shades to cover all circumstances.
Step 3, eyes
Under the eyes I am using a combination of Mac Prep + Prime Highlighter combined with concealer. Mixing these products together adds a gentle radiance around the eye area. At John-Pierre Braganza’s show, we saw a real focus on 1960s and ’70s-style lashes, with make-up artist Terry Barber referencing actress Jane Birkin. To prepare for false lash application, curl lashes using a lash curler into a gentle backward ‘C’ shape.
Using New In Season and Cultivating Chic from the MAC SS14 Trend Forecast Palette, these colours in shades of bronzey golds and mink are applied with a 286 brush to create a wider version of the natural socket, almost like an elongated half-moon, taking the colour to the brows in the corner of the eye. Using the same brush, sweep Ground Brown eye shadow on the socket to strengthen and set the cream eye shadow. This creates the 1970s classic round-eye look. Use the brush and apply product with the tip and blend with the length.
Apply false lashes to the top and measure them before you apply the glue. If you need to trim, do so from the outer edge. Use lashes that are longer in the middle to exaggerate the round eye effect. We want this to look like a modern version of a 1970s look, so don’t apply mascara to lashes and apply a minimum amount of glue. Wriggle lashes until you have them in the perfect placement and press gently. Repeat for bottom lashes. The trick for the bottom lashes is to go in from underneath your own lashes.
Using a tiny eyeliner brush, paint eyeliner along the lash line to disguise the false lashes, using very thin strokes.
Step 4, brows
Use Mac Clear Brow Set to push the brows up to look bushy and full for a modern 1970s take. If brows are thinner, fill them with shadow rather than liner as this will make them appear more fluffy.
Step 4, cheeks
On cheeks, I’m using crème blusher in Something Special. It’s a very pretty peach, which is great on pale skin tones. If you have darker skin, Vintage Rose is a good alternative. There is strong 1920s influence in 1970s make-up, so blush is applied quite high and doll-like.
Step 5, lips
Use your fingertips to apply a lipstick such as MAC’s Shy Girl hue. Overall, there is a feeling of imperfection this season and applying with fingertips can suitably achieve this feel. Shy Girl brings a soft, peachy colour to the lips, without looking overdone.
stay tuned for more make up tricks ;)