There was an unmistakeable — if surprising — smell in the air at Opening Ceremony’s Fall 2014 runway show, the rich, sweet scent of melted chocolate, reminiscent at once of both innocence and decadence. The aroma came not, as some models guessed, from craft service, but from the show’s backdrop, which oozed, bubbled, and dripped with chocolate seeping from the top in an alluring and vaguely threatening manner. Designers Humberto Leon & Carol Lim—also responsible for Kenzo’s recent renaissance—have long been favorites of the cool kids, and this collection showed they know exactly what their audience wants. Inspired, they said, by Antwerp, Leon and Lim worked with a clean, smooth, yet slightly quirky aesthetic that would not be out of place in the ateliers of Raf Simons or Dries Van Noten. There were softly swirling prints, a rich palette of jewel tones, and a play at asymmetry that was more mature than the brand’s usual youthful pieces. Xiao Wen Ju’s sharp blue coat had a single notched lapel over a crisp striped dress that seemed to be missing half its bottom. Grace Mahary’s hand-print jacket came paired with a quilted skirt that looked like a bar of chocolate squares. There were also a number of grown-up dresses that burst forward with voluminous pleats or sloped gracefully to one side. The guys had equally creative options, from Kyle Mobus’ athletic, geometric color-block sweatshirt to Philip Witts’ trompe l’oeil camel coat, with fake pockets and lapels traced out in seaming. The emphasis was on modernist sportswear, like Laurie Harding’s paneled coat reminiscent of racing suits or Ian Sharp’s bright tee that gaped at the bottom thanks to an undone zipper. They were easy, clever pieces for both genders, sure to find many fans among the brand’s loyal clients in a few months, but they were also something more, a step in a new direction that expects a little more thought from the wearer